Sunday, 12 June 2016

Rome- was built in a day ... Not!


Wow that was some gap since the last post, almost as long as a female Gorilla's gestation period (a pure coincidence). Was at an aint-nobody-got-time-for-blogging phase, but that's over for now, anyways, I recall having left the previous post at a point where I just had boarded a bus that was taking me to Rome ( Like you'd remember ). I'll continue from there.

Chapter I - The Morning

The bus ran over an innocent speed bump that c
aused my head in turn to bump onto the window it was casually resting upon. A rude awakening from an uncomfortable snooze, but it's really not the worst feeling when you fall asleep in Venice and wake up in Rome.
Rome greeted me with a chilly breeze, and I immediately cursed Jupiter (When in Rome...) for forgetting to get more warm clothes. I however soon found my stride and was off to the hostel I had booked earlier.
Rome is like one of those Real Madrid teams of the early 2000s which made you go "Hell! I didn't know even he's in the team!" But Rome's kind of like that with it's architecture. Unlike Venice, which could be traversed on foot on one go by any guy high on weed (who however does know how to swim ), Rome is huge. In terms of area, it's roughly twice the size of Venice and 1.3 times the size of Mumbai (Yes kars, unlike what your Doodhwala told you, Mumbai is not the largest city in the world ). Rome's full of monuments, so many that, if you were to place a character you can think of from the Harry Potter series at each one of them, you'll find yourself scraping the bottom of the barrel, placing Hannah Abbott or Dennis Creevy on the last one ( Ugh! ). To begin with, there's the Colosseum, which each one has heard of, thanks to the blood fetish of Hollywood. But that's barely the beginning, there's the Trevi fountain, the beautiful 18th century fountain where as with every other fountain like structure in the world, people throw in coins to have their wishes fulfilled ( LOLzz ), there's the Panthenon, a structure sure to give you goosebumps when you find out about it's history or when you see it at night and there's the Piazza Navona, where a lot of happening stuff is constantly happening (did I use that right?). I however didn't know all this then, and so as a good Indian, I geared myself for a visit to the one monument that I had heard of...

Chapter II - 21st Century Gladiator

There's a reason why some structures in the world are famous. Why some stand out and are generally visited by people from all over the world. With the Colosseum, each of the reason becomes very apparent. It's historic as hell, with it's construction beginning and completing between 72-80 AD, you must admit that's fast work for a world before high tech machines, but then again, the workers must have been worked to death, glad that doesn't happen today.
Yo Colosseum so old, she's from the ancient Rome
But look at how old it is! Yo Colosseum so old, she baby sat Jesus's baby, Yo Colosseum so old, she actually witnessed the date go from 31-Dec-99 to 01-Jan-100, Yo Colosseum so old, the most recent earthquake that damaged its outer walls, was 150 years prior to Chistopher Columbus discovering the West Indies (That is a fact). Needless to say, Yo Colosseum is old, really old. It is regarded as a wonder of the medieval world which was basically people of the medieval world voting for their top 10 favorite monuments on Orkut. Moving beyond the fact that it's old and laced with history, it's a pretty grand structure in itself. Yes, it looks like it's head was bashed in by a pissed off Giant, but the structure is still the largest standing amphitheater in the world. It's seating capacity is huge, which at a time can be close to 80,000 people ( not as on today, but back then ), which is more than that of Old Trafford. But more than the fact that it's old and that it's grand, the thing that makes the Colosseum a touch different from say an Eiffel Tower or a Taj Mahal is that it was meant to be a place of entertainment. Fun things happened here ( as per the Romans back then ). So when at the Colosseum, you will find guides showing you clay models of how tigers would be brought to the arena, where the gladiators hid when one by one each of their comrades got killed, or where Caesar sat to watch the gladiators die. So if you're not into history, or art, the idea of the gore can keep you interested. 
As you step out of the Colosseum, you find two things that catch your attention, one being the very oddly shaped trees that make you want to pinch yourself, and the second, is hoards of 'What to see in Rome' booklets of varying costs, each indicating, now that you're done with snow white, go visit each of her dwarves, And so off I went to explore the unknown...

Chapter III - Ohh the monuments!!


Once you're done with the Colosseum and are trotting on the road with the customary city map in your hand, expectations are fairly average. But prepare to be thrown off your feet. Monuments everywhere turn out to be so much better than their minuscule photos on the map (no seriously!). Every monument that you expect to be 2 storeys tall, is in fact 20 storeyed tall. Only there are no storeys, but long columns to support the roof of the Roman building. Walking through Rome is like walking through time, you can find monuments from various eras, all around the city and you're bound to bump into one even when you don't want to, kind of like that aunty you try to Avoid when you're back home for the holidays ( Haan aunty, zinda hoon bas! )


Pantheon Dome- What are you tying to communicate?


Roman forum- look at the tiny men besides it
II place among the most popular monuments at Rome goes to Pantheon, this is something that truly stands out. Built in 100 odd AD, the huge dome like structure with a hole on top was meant to be a generic temple, to serve all gods in general. It's also one of the best preserved buildings of the I century. Approaching it from the rear, you hardly notice it. It looks like a large worn out building , but as with all old monks, it's what's inside that mesmerizes you. With the Colosseum, you can still believe that with certain amount of hard work, whipping and planing, it could be built, not however taking away the efforts of those who died constructing it. Yet with the Pantheon, you need some complex maths to build this stuff. It's still the largest dome in the world and with a near perfect circular hole at the top, it gives you an out of the world feel. 
Moving on, I reached the Trevi fountain around the evening. Now I don't know much about the Trevi fountain except that it's extremely good looking, kind of what one would say about Alexandra Daddario. I saw a lot of couples around though, so I avoided the place for the rest of the journey.
Another region, that's a must watch or at least a must pass by is the Roman Forum. It's right adjacent to the Colosseum and will not feature on many maps because it's just a bunch of ruins that's spread across a 500m radius. But it has a lot of buildings dating back to the BCs, which will transport you back to a much more simpler time
Then there's the Altare Della Patria, that I don't know who made or when, but it's a bluish white building with black colored chariot sculptures on it's roof. Looked real cool. As I said before, monuments are a plenty and one should be prepared to call it a day even when his mind is left unsatiated. 

Chapter IV - The other side of the Tiber


If you're a devout catholic and love god ( or for that matter hate him and want to have a Deewar moment ), you need to cross the Tiber or if the only reason you're travelling is to Brag to your neighbors that you have visited xx no. of countries in your life, you definitely need to cross the Tiber, because across the river, lies the smallest country in the world, one where the Pope resides with his army men and their clown costumes. I decided to visit the Vatican on my second day after spending the first one admiring the art of Roman sculptures in the first half and in the second frantically running around the city to try to catch em ol before it was too late
Gentlemen, today we form a boomerang
The main attraction in the Vatican is the Sistine chapel ( or sixteenth chapel as per that Infosys guy you'll meet on the way ) You will first be confronted by the St. Peters Basilica, the familiar sight from Angels and Demons or rather the queue in front of the structure. There wouldn't be any barricades, but you will be amazed how people have the courtesy to form a natural line or curve or whatever the shape of the day is. Patience has been a virtue I lost a long time ago, and so I decided to do the next best thing- take selfies and leave! 
Fun fact here, the average price of Beer in Vatican city is cheaper than in Rome. That's a nice way to get drunk people to go visit god first. 
Since there's not much I can say about the interiors of the Basilica or of the Chapel, the statues on the outside are pretty well made ( Running out of adjectives here ). Vatican has a lot to offer for those who wish to see, but otherwise, it's not a bad idea to leave early and catch up on some of the other monuments that you might have missed out.

Chapter V - I world problems for a III world citizen

Rome is geographically ill positioned, they might have been strategically located I agree, I mean something must have lead them to be the largest empire of the world for 500 years. Yet, for a traveler, especially one who wishes to travel cheap, it might not be the most geographically apt position to place a city. It's right at the bottom of the oddly shaped country, almost sucking you deeper into its belly. Once you reach Rome, there's no going back, at least not cheaply. All roads lead to Rome my foot. 
I had to make a decision of whether to go to Oktoberfest in Munich or visit more places in Italy. So as everything in my life seemed to be heading south, I decided, so should I, and that's when I found out about Naples and how it's where the most active volcano in the world is located ( Little did I know, I was in for a mighty disappointment ).But I had found my next destination.
Megabus rides in Europe are extremely cheap and I'm naturally more of a Bus person, so once again I found myself at the door of a large double Decker bus. I hadn't heard much about this next place I was about to go to, only that the food is expected to be very good and that the Mafia stayed there. It sounded just about right. The bus began to move and I was already half asleep by the time we crossed the blue colored board requesting us to visit again. Swear on Neptune, I certainly would love to.


*All image sources: Google
**Also find an earlier post here


Friday, 2 October 2015

Venice-A Group of islands that have no clue what islands should look like

What happens when a single guy turns up in one of the most romantic places in the world, after a month long stint in one of the least romantic places in the world...



As the flight touched down at the Marco Polo international airport and I was rudely awoken from my slumber at 4 am local time, something my Circadian Rhythm didn't seem to agree on, my face lit up. I was finally here, in a country which I wanted to visit
since I first saw Gladiator, the desire invigorating every time I saw movies such as Casino Royale, the Godfather or the Italian Job so much so that, I unhesitatingly selected it among all other possible European options. I was finally at Italy- Berlusconi's Trump Tower.
I couldn't manage to hold the smile for long as it generally is tough to do so at 4 am , but more so because of thinking about what was to come next. Immigration is not one of the most fun moments for brown guys anywhere in the world. I had a pretty rough experience the time I had gone to Amsterdam and so on this occasion,  I had my script prepared by the time I reached the immigration officer. Surprisingly, he let me pass without a fuss and I headed out towards the exit, for spending an awesome couple of days at this Disneyland of the 1500s.

Moving About...

Getting to the city from the airport is pretty straightforward. You take a bus from right outside the airport to right outside the city. If you're planning to stay in Venice for a couple of days, take a long hard look at the tires of the bus after you descend. It will be the last time you'll be seeing wheels for a while. Venice may probably be the only city in the world where you don't get to see any Vehicles on the road.Yes, that includes  non polluting one's such as Cycles and it's derivatives, or even just street polluting one's such as horse carts as well.
People also generally do not travel via boats within the city for short distances even though they technically can do so using the extremely famous (albeit overhyped) gondolas. This is partly because not every one's filthy rich to ride a Gondola every time they want to go buy vegetables ( a ride costs somewhere between 40-80 Euros) and also because traditionally, the Gondola has been a romantic vehicle and has been used by people wanting to experience Romance in it's most Cliche'd form, and not as a mode of transportation. But having said that, it isn't uncommon to find people owning boats in either Venice or it's sister islands.
However, to travel fairly long distances, there is a very well organized system of public ferries in the city, which operate a lot like the metro system of many cities.
Quick Tip- Since the least valuable ticket you can purchase is a 24 hour pass for 15 Euros, you better buy one the moment you land even if you're planning to stay for less than a day. You'll miss out on a lot of cool places if you don't.


The Ferry as seen from the Rialto Bridge


After the concept of Venice had sunk in, mostly because of the fierce judgmental looks I got from some Venetians when I asked them if there's a Metro station close by ("What do you think wise ass, we're not the Japanese to be able to do that kind of shit") I decided to take to the road on foot. And boy, wasn't it worth it

People...

As with most European tourist places, the crowd is roughly a 50:50 mixture of tourists and locals. I was pleased to see some of the prettiest girls I'd seen in a while roaming about the streets with their boyfriends ( Okay the boyfriends part sucked). Surprisingly, the number of Indian's were very few... admittedly a phrase you don't get to hear often.
Most of the Venetians know English fine, apart from the fact that they elongate every word so much that you get a sense they're thinking way too much for conveying the simplest of messages with each word invariably ending with an 'uhh' or an 'ohh'. But the locals despite struggling with their elongated vowels, generally assist you whenever and wherever they can.
One way to identify a Venetian on the road is by noticing the ones who're walking at a very brisk pace. I mean it's understandable that they've probably seen the same frikkin road or bridge a thousand times where enthusiastic selfie takers spend minutes or hours,and so are relatively faster than the visitors. But they're also in general pretty fast for Humans, perhaps because of being brought up in a city without vehicles, they've become accustomed to a slightly faster natural walking speed. As a Venetian lady later told me, " We Venetians don't walk, we fly " ( I paraphrased to filter out the Ohhs and Uhhs).


Across the Ponte'...

They say one of the best things to do in Venice is getting lost in the streets and discovering something new. Though that is true to a fair amount since you will get lost there unless you have a really good map. The paths are confusing to tread along as the streets are narrow and there are far too many turns, with most of the turns leading you through narrow alleyways, across multitudes of bridges, through buildings, through churches and even restaurants. That being said, Venice is not short of amazing historic monuments or places where significant historic events took place.
The one place that'll show up in every list of "must see places in Venice" is the Piazza San Marco where you'll find amazing examples of Gothic Architecture with Ottoman and Byzantine Influences ( copied verbatim from Wikipedia), but seriously, it's pretty cool.
It's also a place where the intelligentsia from all over Europe used to assemble during the 16th-17th Century to discuss about art, philosophy and love ( I was beginning to get really annoyed of the word 'love' by this point). But yes, other geeky stuff also  happened in the square. For instance, at the Doge's palace a man demonstrated for the first time a funny looking invention,  to a visiting Austrian prince and spellbound audience members. The man was Galileo Galilei  and the 'funny looking invention' was of course, the first telescope.


Quick Tip: Do check out the view from the top of the Clocktower, the queue's much shorter than the adjacent Basilica's and the view from the top is wallpaper-esque.


(Scenes from atop the Clocktower)





The Sisters...

No visit of Venice is complete without a visit to any of it's sister islands, the Murano, the Burano, the
Colorful Streets of Burano
Torcello and the Lido island being the most popular ones for tourists.
So Murano's an island where the famous Murano Glass sculptures are made. There you can pay and get to see people make glass sculptures in factories which is pretty cool for someone who likes fire and sand and mettle and other guy stuff. It's fun to watch what looks like a lump of molten glass become a colorful sculpture within a matter of a few minutes with hits and cuts at the right points.
Burano on the other hand, is the feminine version of Murano and has colourful houses ( Almost right out of an artists sketch of the city) and is famous for it's wedding dresses made of white laces and umbrellas also made of white laces ( With absolutely no practical use whatsoever as admitted even by the people selling them ). But in general, Burano felt a lot more scenic and if you're travelling with your special someone, it'd be the place where you may want to have the  'newly-wed-enjoying-honeymoon' photo.


Overall, Venice felt just like how I had imagined it, a surrealistic place, with lot's of Canals and bridges, beautiful architecture ( did I mention it's Gothic Architecture with Ottoman and Byzantine Influences), amazing people and authentic Italian cuisines. Though it might get a bit intimidating for a single guy to see so many couples caressing each other all over the city and there might be times when you have to control the urge of capsizing a gondola as it sails past you with the gondolier playing serenading music the whole time.


A bird looks to the horizon as Evening falls 
As the day came to an end and the salty breeze from the canals picked up pace, I headed towards the bus waiting at the outskirts of the city for me to board. The day's events were already fading out as I could feel the excitement for the next city I was about to visit. That one city which has fought it's way to our hearts-Rome.









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*Read more on my voyages( was itching to use this word) at http://chocolatechips101.blogspot.com/ , after I write them that is.
For the ones who don't know me, I'm a consultant currently working from my clients location in Riyadh where I generally stay for the better part of the month. As my visa allows me to stay for a maximum of only 30 days in one trip, I take the opportunity to travel to whichever country I can get my hands on and whichever's the cheapest of course ( Jai Hind!). Hope to write more on interesting cities I visit. Thanks for reading this one for now. Ciao!

Check the next one here